Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Antalya Beaches


A favorite beach destination for residents of Antalya is Konyaalti, a long stretch of pristine pebble beach backed by a meandering promenade chock full of activities, including playgrounds and Aqualand, Antalyas' largest water park. Kids will particularly enjoy Dolphinland, where for $10 per person you can smile in wonder along with your little ones, and for an extra $60, you can swim with the dolphins. The whole complex has been dubbed Antalya Beach Park (www.beachparkantalya.com); at press time, it featured about 13 beach establishments -- swaths of waterfront brightly equipped with lounges, umbrellas and serviced by cafes, restaurants, changing cabins, and showers.


 Beach admission fees vary from about $3 to $7 per day and include use of the facilities. Most of the beach establishments have a water sports center, with jet skis ($29 for 15 min.); parasailing ($29 for 15 min.); ringo rides ($17 per person), water-skiing ($17 per tour); kayaks ($5.75 per hour); sea bikes ($8.05 per hr.) and windsurfing ($12 per hr.) to name a few. As the sun sets, beach clubs morph into stylish outdoor nightclubs, providing cushions and lounges for lots of posing and draping, and an atmosphere of high style and frivolity. Main access to the beach is down a switchback road between the archaeological museum and the park; pedestrians can enter via a series of steps and bridges behind the Sheraton Hotel.
The sparse and sandy Lara Beach stretches along the coast in the opposite direction, a little over 11km (7 miles) east of downtown. Access to the beach is for the most part, through the few hotel or camping establishments that dot the road eastward, and the farther out you get, the more spartan the beach becomes. The beach at the Club Hotel Sera is the jazziest, backing the hotel grounds that are literally lined with red carpets; more popular for weekend picnickers are the Erici Motel and Beach and the Adalya Beach Motel and Camping. There's a nominal entrance fee for use of private facilities at the former, and a restaurant, cafe, and bar at the latter.
Freshwater springs gushing off the mountains have found several awe-inspiring outlets in and around Antalya -- a great place for a bracing, high-pressure shower. Located below Mermerli Park at the eastern end of Kaleiçi is Memerli Plaj (admission $2; entrance through the Memerli Restaurant), a miniature beach backed by the ancient sea walls. An icy spring shoots out of the rock at the end of the beach, but the narrow sandy strip is a bit unkempt and crowded. With a little more time, you'll do better to head over to the Lower Düden Waterfalls, on the road to Lara Beach, where the waters plunge straight into the sea. Alternately, go an additional 13km (8 miles) to the Upper Düden Waterfalls, unique because you can walk behind the cascade.
Heading west by car, Antalya's sprawl dissipates and small beaches and clusters of resort hotels dot the coastal road. The planned resort village of Kemer, 43km (27 miles) later, takes advantage of aquamarine calm waters backed by craggy mountainous cliffs, as waves lap through the pebbles creating a relaxing munching sound. The narrow beach is equipped with lounges and umbrellas, and the overpriced shopping strip stocks enough cash registers to keep you busy after sunning.
Just 14km (9 miles) farther west is the ancient port city of Phaselis (open daily summer 8am-6pm; winter 8am-4pm), nestled amidst the pine trees on the edge of three pristine and scenic bays. Plan to spend the day (entrance fee $7) to wade in the waters and wander through the main streets, agoras, baths, and temples of this enchanting ancient city.
The amazing caves and waterfalls around Antalya are accessible on 2-, 4-, or 6-hour boat excursions; crews begin hawking the next day's tours early in the evening, or you can show up at the last minute for a boat that's about to disembark. For $10, these guys will basically go anywhere you want; you can even take a night trip. Longer tours make trips to nearby beaches and may include a guided tour of the lovely and pine-shaded ancient harbor city of Phaselis. 

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